Podere Le Boncie

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No-image I had the pleasure visiting the beautiful Podere le Boncie in June this year and tasted the 2008 Le Trame and I can say confidently that it is an absolute classic. The estate is guided by the legendary Giovanna Morganti who is held in extremely high esteem throughout Italy for her unwavering drive to produce a wine that is territorial and authentic. If you are looking for comparisons in commitment to her territorial cause I would be happy to put her in the same catergory as Beppe Rinaldi, the late Bartolo Mascarello and Edoardo Valentini, Gianfrnaco Soldera, & Giampiero Bea.

Legendary names who share the same love of their territory and protect its integrity. The estate is situated just outside the small village of San Felice at the southern end of the Chianti Classico zone where the distinctive le crete Senesi meets the lush green rolling hills of the Chianti Classico zone.

The 4 hectares of vineyard has been run on organic principles since 1995 and are planted to albarello trained Sangiovese, Canaiolo & Mammolo and the very rare Foglia Tonda at around 7000 plants per hectare at an elevation of 400 metres facing south. The soils here are a mix of typical Tuscan silt and clay with shards of broken rocks dispersed through the vineyard. All of the grapes are hand picked into small baskets and delivered to the winery.

The winemaking here is very traditional with fermentation taking place in large open topped wooden fermenters with no temperature control with no addition of yeasts and let to ferment at its own pace. The cap is regularly broken with the traditional Tuscan ‘bustone’ and the wine spends a lengthy time on its skins before being it is racked off to traditional large Slavonian botte until it is ready to be bottled. The wine is then bottled with a tiny amount of sulphur and left to settle. The 2008 is a classic from Giovanna and it mirrors the site and the growing season perfectly.

The nose is a complex mix of morello cherry, Tuscan herb, lavender and old leather. The palate is fine boned with chalk like tannin providing the backbone and a line of driving acidity perfectly framing the wine. The wine is delicate, fine and ethereal and incredibly complex. Only 600 bottles of this great wine make it to Australia and this is first time in many years it has been offered in this country.

Region: Castelnuovo Berardenga, Toscana
Country: Italy